Platter of Heritage: Transgenerational Tales of Gastronomy

Food and Cultural Bond

 Dr. Shatabdi Som

Assistant Professor

Amity School of Communication, Kolkata


Weaving tapestry of memories, cultural identities and geographical abundance, ‘food’ has always been the universal bond between tradition, nutrition and storytelling. Every household has secret Sunday recipes, lunchbox stories, festive and community meals nourishing generations with its gastronomic delights.  Stories were woven during each harvest and passed on to generations in the form of intriguing narratives. “We sun dry the mustard plants, grind and blend with a traditional rice soup during the winter”, recounts a group of rural women of Purulia, inheriting the recipe from their ancestors. The culinary conversions transcending generations preserve the family meal practices ensuring nutrition strengthening family and societal bonds.


 

  Rural women narrating food stories   

                        Sun dried mustard greens                         

 

An enthusiastic Instagram food blogger recounts how her grandparents managed to feed the uncountable migrants during the 1971 partition even during the acute shortage of food.  It is through her Instagram page she narrates these stories and  even after decades those recipes were rediscovered and has effortlessly managed to be a part of the transgenerational platter surviving the test of time. More than sustenance, food and communication have achieved a stature of empowered narratives of abundance & love, scarcity & hardship, migration & resilience influencing food preferences and cultural identity. A group of craftsmen travel from Chhatna (Bankura, West Bengal) to the outskirts of Purulia to make data palm jaggery. Living in makeshift setups made of bamboo and palm leaves, they engage themselves  in a tedious process from collecting the syrup to finally making the jaggery, narrating the stories of how they learnt the skill from their fathers.

 


Jaggery (nolen gur) artisans at work in Purulia

 

Metaphorically, food remains an eternal touchpoint in the cinematic narratives of Ghatak, Rossellini and Chaplin. Ghatak’s protagonist in ‘Meghe Dhaka Tara’, Neeta, skips meals representing the turmoils of the partition narratives; food serves as connection between the communities during theatre rehearsals symbolising food as a metaphor for memory, identity, gender, and displacement. When the impoverished localites stone the bakery in Rossellini’s ‘Rome-Open City’ tells stories of hunger, and oppression under a fascist regime. A poignant depiction of starvation in the tragicomic moment of the shoe-eating scene in Chaplin’s ‘Gold Rush’ epitomises the desperation for food.

Documenting food in media texts captures the essence of cultural identity, family and societal history. The social media driven communication archives and embraces the story of culinary traditions honouring the past and enriching the present and future, resonating the flavours of heritage through storytelling. Narrating stories of food goes beyond culinary instructions; capturing the essence of history and traditions.

 Pic Courtesy: Dr. Shatabdi Som

 
  



 



  



 



 



 



 



 



 



 






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