SHILLONG THROUGH LOCAL EYES: A TRAVELER’S GUIDE

(Puja Edition)

Gabriella Nongtdu

B.A Sem 1



“The town was a small one, but it carried within it the echoes of a wider world.” Wrote Siddhartha Deb in his book The Point of Return, speaking of his time growing up in Shillong. Just like him, a large number of people who have visited Shillong if not all, have had lovely experiences exploring the city. How could anyone not? Shillong, a city in the state of Meghalaya is known for its immaculate weather all year round, magnificent sightseeing locations, bustling markets, terrific local cuisine and many travelers have said that people of this city are the calmest and kindest. Shillong is popularly known for its outskirt locations and rightfully so, the never-ending sight of evergreen hills and giant cascades allures people quite like no other. However, that is not only what the city offers.  


There are still numerous traditional and old tourist attractions and activities to experience in the city, like visiting the market and Ward’s Lake located in Police Bazaar, Lady Hyderi Park in Lower Lachumiere, Don Bosco Museum in Mawlai, the golf course in Golf Links, the Cathedral in Laitumkhrah and so on. However, many travelers visit Shillong often and the common tourist attractions are limited in the city, or some travelers want to experience the authentic lifestyle of a local. Café culture is a growing trend in Shillong. Some of the cafés and eateries that are worth visiting are Roma Eatery, The Grub, Suburb, Shillong Café, Dylan’s Café, and Fika all located in Laitumkhrah, Farraway and Kynjai Cloud Kitchen in Motinagar, Cherry Bean and Trifle in Police Bazaar. As of fine dining there is the Heritage Club, Acropolis, The Ambience, The White Rock, Bistro 16, The Mango Tree, City Hut Family Dhaba, all located well within the city with great ambiance and music. And as for local cuisines, Rynsan in Laitumkhrah, and Agapae in Police Bazaar are the popular spots although the city is sprawled out with small local food stalls. Shillong is also known as the Rock Capital of India therefore music is at the heart of Shillong’s evenings. Venues like Cloud 9, Pinewood Hotel, Evening Club, and Café Shillong are popular spots for live gigs.

Now, if you want authentic local experience then Iewduh is just the right place. Iewduh, also known as Bara Bazaar is a market built almost entirely for locals unlike Police Bazaar which is quite tourist-oriented. Walking through Iewduh is an experience for all the senses as the market is segregated into sections as per their items. When you enter the market from the north, the section is called Khlieh Iew (Head of the market) and it’s the oldest part. Here you will encounter vendors selling livestock especially chicken, and as you go down further to the right of the narrow lanes you will arrive at the section of vendors selling vegetables and an infinite amount of spices. Various kinds of vegetables would be sprawled out on each side with a huge variety of common and even local vegetables namely swathang (a bitter vegetable), sohkhia-khlaw (wild cucumber-like leafy green), etc. Moving down the small and narrow steps you will reach the fish vendors selling all kinds of fresh, frozen, and dried fish. Describing each detail of this market would be next to impossible as its core area alone has over 5,000 permanent stalls/shops and hundreds of temporary vendors who come daily, under approximately 2km distance. While you would not walk a 2km stretch, the market feels endless because its made of interconnected alleys and courtyards where you could easily spend hours exploring and still not see every section. To list out the other sections, there is the spices and betel nut section, ritual and household items section, textile and clothing section, livestock corner, and many more.

   

Shillong is not just a gateway to Meghalaya’s beauty, it is a destination in its own right. Within the city every corner tells a story. For those who wander through its streets, Shillong offers more than sights, it offers experiences. The city may be small on the map, but within its hills and streets lies a world that lingers long after you have left.

 Pic Credit: Gabriella Nongtdu

                  Moumita De Das, Associate Professor, ASCO

 

 

 

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